Travel with the Twins to Southern Spain
Andalusia:
We flew through Madrid into Seville. You can also go to Jerez, which is a little closer to the towns we explored in Southern Spain. The perk of coming through Seville is visiting the elegant city’s gorgeous squares, lined with fragrant orange trees and rife with chic cafes.
We stopped at Café Filo for smoothies and sandwiches, the perfect way to kick off a trip full of lots of eating.
Stay At:
We drove from Seville about 2 hours south to Casa La Siesta, our Andalusian home. The 6-room “rural luxury” hotel is a little oasis amidst the region’s vast farmland: gorgeous, whitewashed rooms decked in tiles from the UK’s Bert & May and plenty of natural, woven fibers and furniture surround a courtyard planted with fragrant, blooming trees. The sparkling pool is a divine antidote to the region’s notably high summertime temperatures, and the stocked outdoor honor bar will leave you wanting nothing. Just the kind of place you’d want to gather 20 of your closest friends, and never leave.
As with many European hotels, the breakfasts are included, and are spectacular: fresh local fruits, french pressed coffee, and bread baked on the premises just to start. Dinner and lunch at Casa la Siesta are equally excellent: set menus prepared by the incredibly hospitable staff featuring local ingredients. The meals are definitely worth staying home for.
Casa La Siesta is just minutes from the ancient town of Vejer de la Frontera, but could also be a base for exploring other Southern cities including Cadiz and Tarifa (the Southernmost point in continental Europe). We loved Vejer: the charming white town on a hill is connected by steep streets (don’t attempt it with your rental car) and features great food and great views.
Eat At:
El Muro: Traditional Spanish ingredients with an elegant, modern spin. We loved our meal at this new, Michelin-awarded, tiny gem.
Jardin del Califa: Renowned North African food in a beautiful interior courtyard in the center of town; reserve here weeks (or months!) in advance.
Califa Tapas: We couldn’t score a reservation at their sister restaurant, Jardin del Califa but ate late-night tapas (the super late dining thing in Spain is real!) here and loved the entire vibe.
Taberna la Judería de Vejer: Situated in the Jewish quarter of the historic city, this magical spot has sweeping sunset views and great food to match.
Shop At:
Cesteria: For baskets and woven accessories (I came home with a few).
Mario Cruz: For fashion wares from the Barcelona-based designer. We couldn’t believe this little concept store – rife with fab glasses, jewelry, ready-to-wear, and accessories - existed in Vejer and all left with something.
Spend A Day:
Touring with John Carlos Milburn Rodriguez of Explore La Tierra.
We started at Barbate where we walked to ancient ruins and the “faro” (lighthouse) surrounded by beautiful sweeping dunes and beach irises.
Then off to the Sancha Pērez bodega (vineyard) where we toured the grounds and sampled their incredible wine and olive oil with an incredible outdoor lunch on their property. The proprietor spent so much time with us (and took a great liking to Johnny) – just one example of the incredible Spanish hospitality we experienced.
Explore:
There are plenty of great beaches within striking distance of Casa La Siesta but be prepared for tricky parking thanks to the big crowds in July and August.
Cala del Aceite: This beach is extremely popular, but we loved climbing on the rocks at this dramatic beach where red sandy cliffs met the sea.
Playa de Bolonia in Tarifa: White sand, vendors selling mojitos up and down the beach, and very good shell collecting – what’s not to love? Make sure you stop at El Bocado Iberico for the best ham sandwich ever on your way in or out.
From Vejer, we traveled North to Costa Brava, a coastal region of Catalonia in the Northeast of Spain. We returned to the Seville airport and hopped on a quick, regional flight to Barcelona. We picked up a rental car and drove about 90 minutes towards the French border. The towns of Costa Brava are beyond charming, perched atop Mediterranean beaches with crystal blue waters.
Stay At:
We were based out of Hotel Aiguaclara in Begur but explored the region extensively. We loved the central location of this beautiful colonial mansion (our room had a balcony overlooking the town and the hotel has its own small parking lot, a huge plus):
If we return sans kid, I’d love to stay at La Bionda, but note: it’s adults only.
Costa Brava is dotted with so many idyllic coves for swimming and sun-washed towns for exploring. We could have spent days wandering to different beaches and eating seaside lunches.
What To Do:
Don’t miss the Dijous (Catalan for “Thursday”) DJs in Begur’s Plaza on Thursday nights. One of the highlights of the trip: there were locals and tourists dancing together in the town square.
Hike from Begur to Sa Tuna Cove: About 45 minutes of pathways and trails take you from the town center to a gorgeous, rocky beach called Aiguafreda. This is where I collected sea glass and stones (that I’ll be making into jewelry!). Call (well) in advance for a reservation at Hostal Sa Tuna Restaurant and don’t be scared to order the whole fish for the table!
Explore the town of Calella de Palafrugell: A 20-minute drive from Begur, this ancient fishing village sits on a rocky coastline and features so many good restaurants and spectacular little coves for exploring.
Spend a day on the water: We hired Aiguablava boats for a day exploring on a traditional Mallorcan llaüt (a beautiful traditional wooden fishing boat). Kristian, our skipper, guided us through magical coves where we hopped off to swim in and out of caves and then docked us in Tamariu where we headed on shore for lunch. Positively a highlight of the trip:
Eat At:
La Pizzeta in Begur: A welcome break from all the (delicious!) ham in the South, we loved the pizzas and the setting (try to score a table outside).
Restaurante Margarita in Calella de Palafrugell: We loved this seaside restaurant on the beach. From the decor (I was flipping over bowls to see if I could identify makers) to the fresh salads and pasta, it was perfect.
La Blava in Calella de Palafrugell: We didn’t make it to this converted fisherman’s house on the beach, but heard it is excellent.
Toc Al Mar in Agua Blava: They serve lobster, paella, and grilled fish in an open-air restaurant in the Aigua Blava beach cove. I loved the beach chic vibes.
Pa De Pessic in Begur: Our favorite patisserie right around the corner from our hotel!
Marmara Llafranc: In the upscale town of Llafranc, this chic little spot serves beautiful cocktails and mixes traditional and modern Spanish food.
El Palangui in Tamariu: We stopped here on our boat day for paella and spritzes. What could be better?
On the drive back to Barcelona, we took our foodie friend’s recommendation and stopped at Villa Más in Passeig de Sant Pool for the most elegant, Mediterranean meal. Their dining room and courtyard transport you to a different, more glamorous era and I had to text my mom about the tomatoes from their garden!
The Spain Shopping List:
10. This dream crewneck from Lauren Manoogian. It feels like something you stole from a boyfriend or brother, was perfect for a boat day or over my shoulders in the evening.
11. Handmade earrings the color of the Mediterranean!
12. A mineral sunscreen that still goes on silky sheer. Hallelujah!
13. Easy to pack in a carry-on & seriously cute for day to night. I love these moire mary janes.
14. The perfect coin pouch and a great way to keep your rings & earrings safe when you’re hopping in the ocean!
15. I love a printed shirt open over swimwear or tucked into a skirt for the evening. I’m all about packing things that can be versatile.
