Lizzie & Kathryn's Guide to Tuscany
Why We Went:
Where: Maremma, Tuscany...
Maremma is a coastal area in Western Italy making up the South-Western corner of Tuscany. In fact, it feels like the anti-Tuscany (read: so much fewer tourists!) and is the perfect mix of chic yet discreet. The region has rolling hills, grazing cattle, a new crop of vineyards, and ancient villages with a pristine coast full of cliffs and coves, pine groves, and the occasional glamorous beach town.
Where to Stay:
There are two distinct options in the region. If you prefer the beach, then head straight to Porto Ercole which blends rustic cool with well-heeled lodging, namely the famous Il Pelicano hotel. The second option is to stay inland where you can soak up the Tuscan sun amidst rolling hills and ancient towns.
Where to Eat:
Ristorante Dal Greco, in Porto Santo Stefano:
Il Pelicano:
Il Frantoio:
What to Do:
Walk up the Forte Stella in Porto Ercole. For an unbeatable view and some history along the way, drive - or walk - up to Forte Stella, a circa-1500, Spanish-built fortress in the shape of a star. The imposing structure is as equally impressive (it took over 100+ years to build) as the panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Cultural Delight:
Check out Niki de Saint Phalle’s "Tarot Garden” - a trippy, “esoteric sculpture garden” featuring life-size interpretations of Tarot Cards made from stone, steel, ceramics, glass and mosaics of many other materials. The project spanned from the 1970’s until 2002 (at Niki’s passing) and is a fascinating - and colorful - juxtaposition to the bucolic hillside in which it resides.
Wacky Footnote:
If you know Kathryn and me, you know that as kids we were obsessed with hot springs. Every trip to the American west (we grew up on the east coast but both of our parents have a particular fondness for Colorado, Wyoming, and the rest of the west) we insisted on finding the closest (even if it was an hour out-of-the-way) hot springs (even if it was touristy and tacky). Well who knew Tuscany could offer the same: we couldn’t visit the region without a stop to Saturnia’s Thermal Springs. They were free to enter, crowded with Italian tourists, and felt like hot springs everywhere: touristy, tacky, and delightful, all at the same time.
